1904-O VNC-31 I2R5 - Paste, rotate, Desaturation, Duplicate, Equalized 60%, AC, USM. - Resources: [ SD VAM-31 011318 ] [ VW 1904-O VAM List ] [ VW VAM-31 Description ] | |
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F11, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -30. | F11, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -30. |
General Comment. Blah. |
1903-O VNC-17A I3R5 - Paste, rotate, Desat, Duplicate, Equalized 60%, AC, USM. [ VW VAM-17 ] [ VW VAM-17A ] | |
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F11, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -30. | F11, ISO 400, 1/800. Desaturated -30. |
General Comment. The 1/500 photograph is more focused. It clearly shows doubling at the cap top. Also, the pattern of lines in the upper left serif of the Y of LIBERTY shows nicely. There is still a gradient of focus with the Date having the sharpest focus and the legend going a bit soft. Still, very nice photograph. Interesting little crescent shapes in the floor of the ear show about equally well in either photograph. There may be merit to having a light provide fill to the region of the Date. The photographs have been consistantly underexposed in that area. Tricky to fill and not block the device edges for the date. Block the edges and you can't assess doubling. Compromise. Very nice. |
1903-O VNC-17A I3R5 - Paste, rotate, Desat, Duplicate, Equalized 60%, AC, USM. [ VW VAM-17 ] [ VW VAM-17A ] | |
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F11, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. | F11, ISO 400, 1/800. Desaturated -25. |
General Comment. Blah. Blah. |
1903-O VNC-17A I3R5 - Paste, rotate, Desat, Duplicate, Equalized 60%, AC, USM. [ VW VAM-17A ] | |
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F11, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. | F11, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. |
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F10, ISO 400, 1/800. Desaturated -25. | F11, ISO 400, 1/1000. Desaturated -25. |
General Comment. Great. These look balanced on the focus. The lens is more capable but I suspect the plastic is coming in to play. The 1/800 photograph may have an edge for definition but I doubt the faster shutter speed is the reason. I suspect lighting. A matching obverse down the road. ![]() |
1903-O VNC-17A I3R5 - Paste, rotate, Desat, Duplicate, Equalized 60%, AC, USM. [ VW VAM-17A ] | |
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F8, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. | F9, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. |
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F10, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. | F11, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. |
General Comment. Left and right are perfectly balanced, but a little off focus. Focus bracketing 4-8 shots and you would likely grab it. Top to bottom was over cooked with 4 UNI. Looks like 3 UNI might be the ticket. Very nice. The gouges in w are still not so great. This may be glare and lighting as much as focus. Plus, you are focused above the highest elevation I think. I can tell by comparing the focus on a letter to the adjacent field. The surface of the letter is nearly in focus and the field less so. This tells me you are focused above the coin. You might try picking out a mark on the field in the left wing gap and focus that mark. The focus needs to be a hair lower. Controlling this degree of precision is hard to achieve without a focus rail. You might be able to do this by flexing the Kaiser column as described below. Once again, the F11 photograph is, by far, the best. This is because F11 has the greatest DOF and is reaching down from above the coin. I could be 180 deg wrong. Nonetheless, my bet is that your focus is high. Instead of the left wing gap field as a focus point, better yet might be the hair clash cradled by the eagle's neck. Two birds in one stone. We want that clash mark to show. |
1903-O VNC-17A I3R5 - Paste, rotate, Desat, Duplicate, Equalized 60%, AC, USM. [ VW VAM-17A ] | |
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F8, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. | F9, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. |
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F10, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. | F11, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. |
General Comment. Much Much better, but not there. Notice that the F11 photograph has the best, but not so great, rendition of the w gouges. The focus is moving up the coin but is still biased toward the denomination. Please try a 4 UNO card shimming of the denomination side of the slab. Also, I suggest that if you are not already doing so, refocus at each F stop. I imagine that you are continuing to focus on the eagle's head. Have you figured out single-point focus using the focus indicator. If so, chose a focal spot on the eagle's head. You may discover that the camera's focus indicator is better than your eye. Although, in LV, I expect your eye to have the edge, but maybe not. Also, compare the focus of the I of UNITED to the I of AMERICA. Notice that the left I nearly comes into focus at F11. The right I is not helped much by the gain in DOF at F11 but the left I is. You are maybe 1-2 UNO cards off. Flip a coin. Put 1 UNO card under the left or right side of the slab depending on the result of the coin flip and cross your fingers. The proof is in the pudding. Note: For the first time, these photographs show the vertical line inside the bow loop. I had been wondering about it. Can you see any fogging of the slab plastic? Yes. You should be able to move the joy stick to select a particular focus point from the array. Then if possible, take a photograph when the focus indicator is a solid green, and then take two more, one on either side of solid when the indicator is flickering. If possible turn the ring toward solid but stop when flicking. Do this when approaching solid from clockwise and the anticlockwise directions of the ring. This is poor man's way to bracket focus. You might be able to do this more accurately by getting a solid indicator light, take the shot. Then gently lift up on the camera arm of the Kaiser (it will flex) and the focus indicator should start to flicker. Take the shot. Then push gently downward on the Kaiser arm and the focus indicator should start to flicker. Take the shot. A poor man's version of 3 shot bracketing without a focus rail. You can be even more precise by wedging a dowel under the RS2 to achieve a solid light. Then move the angle of the dowel to put upward pressure to cause flickering of the focus indicator light. take the shot. Then adjust the angle of dowel so that the arm falls below the solid focus indicator and the indicator light starts to flicker. Take the shot. Focus bracketing. Keep in mind that it is not enough to focus on the eagle's head. Focus on the eagle's pupil. Truthfully, a better focal point for dialing in would be center field at a breast feather. But you have to compensate by bracketing downward because the breast feathers are at high elevation. |
1903-O VNC-17A I3R5 - Paste, rotate, Desat, Duplicate, Equalized 75%, AC, USM. [ VW VAM-17A ] | |
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F8, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. | F9, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. |
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F10, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. | F11, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. |
General Comment. The focus at the top appears to be worse in all four cases. I use dots on the left wing cap to monitor the equalization opacity. In all four cases, the focus was off. As you can see, F11 came the closest but that is because F11 has the greatest depth of field. Maybe I was wrong on what end of the slab to shim. Perhaps the legend is above, rather than below, the film plane. I suggest that you shim the denomination side and see if the focus balances, or at least, improves. I over-cooked the equalization a bit and caused flare and blocking. I am not worried about it. I can easily reprocess. At some point, it would be helpful we can balance the focus. If you turn on the grid on in the viewfinder, it can be used to place IGWT smack on the horizon. You may have taken my comment about filling the frame a little too seriously. I am marqueeing at 3950 pasting into a 4000 canvas. I can not get all of the rim in the marquee. Don't worry about these last two quibbles. Let's work out the focus. |
1903-O VNC-17A I3R5 - Paste, rotate, Desat, Duplicate, Equalized 75%, AC, USM. [ VW VAM-17A ] | |
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F11, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. | F8, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -25. |
1903-O VNC-17A I3R5 - Paste, Desat, Duplicate, Equalized 80%, AC, USM. [ VW VAM-17A ] | |
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F11, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -30. | F8, ISO 400, 1/500. Desaturated -50. |
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IMAGE 1: 1903-P VAM-17A PCGS VSS Sticker - F11 | IMAGE 2: 1903-P VAM-17A PCGS VSS Sticker - F8 |
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F11 - ISO 400 and Speed 1/500 | F8 - ISO 400 and Speed 1/500 |
1903-O VNC-17A I3R5 - B5 Photoshop RGB98, Equalized 80% Opacity, Variation, AC, USM. [ VW VAM-17A ] | |
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Processed. Unknown. | Processed. Variations fine blue SMH. AC. Equalize 80%. USM. |
1903-O VNC-17A I3R5 - B5 Photoshop RGB98, Equalized 75% Opacity, Variation, AC, USM. [ VW VAM-17A ] | |
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Processed. Variations highlights. Equalize. AC. USM. | Processed. Variations midtone. Equalize. AC. USM. |
1903-O VNC-17A I3R5 - B5 Photoshop RGB98, Equalized layer at 75% Opacity, AC, Unsharp Mask: Eq second of left. [ VW VAM-17A ] | |
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Processed. Equalize after correction. | Processed. Equalize before correction. |
1903-O VNC-17A I3R5 - B5 Photoshop RGB98, Equalized layer at 50% Opacity, AC, Unsharp Mask [ VW VAM-17A ] | |
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Original. Did not fill the frame. Part of slab is showing. | Processed. Variations correction. Over cooked it. |
1903-O VNC-17A I3R5 - B5 Photoshop RGB98, Equalized layer at 50% Opacity, AC, Unsharp Mask [ VW VAM-17A ] | |
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Original. Did not fill the frame. Part of slab is showing. | Processed. Without variations correction. |
1904-O VNC-31 I2R5 - AB7: Photoshop RGB98, Equalized layer at 50% B4 and 65% B7 Opacity, Color Correction, Unsharp Mask [ VAMWorld ] | |
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B4. I applied the same workflow to B4 as to B7. For whatever reason B4 picked up more green than B7 when the photograph was taken. | B7. This photograph is, on the one hand, more visceral, on the other hand, it is soft. The overall definition on B4 is much better than B7. In both B4 and B7 the focus is soft on the left (Denticles and LW1). This suggest that neither B4 or B7 are in the film plane. I am wondering if the thin film properties of the toning are causing instability according to tilt. Like looking as gasoline on the water from different angles. |
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IMAGE 1: 1903-P VAM-17A PCGS VSS Stickered | IMAGE 2: 1904-P VAM-31 ANACS Not Attributed on Holder |
Comment: Both LFCPs are slabbed and were shot under exact conditions. Only light source used was my two lamps and non-dimmable LED Daylight bulbs. The difference should have been easy for me to see; the V17A is toned; didn't think it was green though. You can easily see the difference between the between the toned V17A and the non-toned V31. | Still, I have to believe that there is some sort of interaction. Does the 17A appear green when viewed in sunlight? I wonder if the color changes depending on the slightest of tilt from the film plane. Nice to know though. I do not know an easy solution. Post-processing I am afraid. |
IMAGE 1: 1903-P VAM-17A PCGS - F11 | IMAGE 2: 1903-P VAM-17A Raw - F11 |
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1903-O VNC-17A I3R5 - Photoshop RGB98, Equalized layer at 50% Opacity, Color Correction, Unsharp Mask [ VW VAM-17A ] | |
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IMAGE 1: 1903-P VAM-17A PCGS - F11 | IMAGE 2: 1903-P VAM-17A Raw - F11 |
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1903-P VAM-12 I2R5 VSS [SD 1903-P Series ] [ VW 1903-P VAM-12] [ VW 1903-P VAM-12A] PS, AdRGB98, Equalized layer at 65% Opacity, Color Correction, Unsharp Mask | |
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Comment. | Comment. |
IMAGE 1: 1903-P VAM-12 Raw - VSS | IMAGE 2: 1903-P VAM-12 Raw - VSS |
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1903-P VAM-12 I2R5 VSS [SD 1903-P Series ] [ VW 1903-P VAM-12] [ VW 1903-P VAM-12A] | |
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1904-O VNC-31 I2R5 - AB7: Photoshop RGB98, Equalized layer at 65% Opacity, Color Correction, Unsharp Mask [ VAMWorld ] | |
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This is a visceral and fun photograph. Nevertheless, you paid a price for opening the aperture to F8 from F11. Depth of field was noticeably reduced. Nonetheless, a beautiful photograph. I did not touch the saturation. If you think that the russet toning is overcooked, then you might change the "Picture Control System" of the D750 to reduce the saturation. Personally, I think it is fine. Also, my Photoshop workflow does not target the Internet. This photograph will look different according to the browser. I am working in the Adobe RGB98 space. To my knowledge, only Safari on the Mac supports this space. My workflow is aimed at printing. Nonetheless, only the most capable hardware, correctly adjusted, and the most critical eye, would notice the difference if I did target the Internet. | Even more fun. Enlarge and compare LW1 to RW1. Note that LW1 is out of focus relative to RW1. Please check this with a RAW coin having no rim dings. If the same difference persists between LW1/RW1, then tweak your QR mount on the RS1 to bring the coin into the film plane by equalizing the focus at 9:00 and 3:00 o'clock. If the raw coin happens to already be in the film plane, then the V31 coin is tilted in the slab. In this case, you would need to shim the slab with something like a playing card. Addendum. It appears that, in the photograph below, LW1 and RW1 are balanced. The V31 must be tilted in the holder or you already tweaked the QR mount. |
IMAGE 1: 1887-P VAM-19A RAW - F11 -- Retained Size When Posted to SD SB | IMAGE 2: 1887-P VAM-19A Raw - F11 -- Retained Size |
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